Portugal

Viriathus and the Lusitaniers: A Chronicle of Bravery and Betrayal

Statue of Viriathus, with Audax, Ditalcus, and Minurus behind him ready to assasinate him. (Viseu, Portugal)

The Lusitaniers were an ancient Indo-European people who inhabited what is now Portugal and parts of western Spain during the Iron Age. They are best known for their fierce resistance against Roman expansion in the Iberian Peninsula during the 2nd century BCE, employing guerrilla tactics to resist the superior Roman forces.

The story of Viriathus, the most notable Lusitanian leader, begins with a betrayal during his childhood. The Romans, under the command of Servius Sulpicius Galba, deceived the Lusitanians by offering them peace and new lands. Trusting the Romans, many Lusitanians, including the young Viriathus, laid down their arms. However, Galba betrayed this agreement, massacring thousands of Lusitanians in a brutal surprise attack. Viriathus survived this atrocity, which deeply influenced his later resistance against Roman rule.

As an adult, Viriathus emerged as a formidable leader, uniting various Lusitanian tribes to wage war against Rome. From 147 to 139 BCE, he led a series of successful campaigns against Roman forces, including those commanded by Quintus Fabius Maximus Servilianus and Quintus Servilius Caepio. His strategic brilliance and ability to outmaneuver the Roman legions made him a revered figure among his people and a thorn in Rome's side.

Despite his successes, Viriathus faced betrayal once again. Unable to defeat him in battle, Quintus Servilius Caepio resorted to subterfuge, bribing three of Viriathus's trusted allies—Audax, Ditalcus, and Minurus. These men assassinated Viriathus while he slept, bringing an end to his leadership and effectively crushing the organized Lusitanian resistance.

Viriathus's death marked the decline of Lusitanian independence, and the region was eventually absorbed into the Roman Empire. Nonetheless, Viriathus's legacy as a symbol of defiance and the tragic tale of betrayal during both his childhood and later life endure as poignant reminders of the Lusitanians' struggle for freedom.

Nuno Álvares Pereira and the Battle of Aljubarrota (14th century, Portugal)

Statue of Nuno Álvares Pereira in Batalha, Portugal.

Nuno Álvares Pereira, also known as the Holy Constable, is one of Portugal's most revered historical figures. Born on June 24, 1360, in Cernache do Bonjardim, he rose from modest beginnings to become a key military leader and national hero. His most notable contribution to Portuguese history was his pivotal role in the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385, a defining moment that secured Portugal's independence from Castile.

In the late 14th century, Portugal faced a succession crisis after the death of King Fernando I in 1383, leaving no male heir to the throne. The crisis led to a power struggle between the supporters of Beatriz, the king's daughter, who was married to King John I of Castile, and those who wanted to maintain Portugal's independence by placing João, the Master of Aviz and an illegitimate son of King Pedro I, on the throne. This period of turmoil, known as the 1383-1385 Crisis, culminated in the Battle of Aljubarrota.

Nuno Álvares Pereira, despite his youth, was appointed as the Constable of Portugal by João of Aviz. His military prowess and strategic acumen were soon put to the test when the Castilian forces, numbering between 20,000 and 30,000 men, invaded Portugal to assert their claim over the Portuguese throne.

On August 14, 1385, the two armies met near the small village of Aljubarrota, not far from the town of Leiria. Nuno Álvares Pereira, leading an army of about 6,000 Portuguese troops, employed innovative tactics to overcome the numerical superiority of the Castilians. He used the natural terrain to his advantage, choosing a defensive position on a hill and digging ditches to disrupt the Castilian cavalry's movements.

The Portuguese forces formed a compact and well-defended line, with archers and crossbowmen placed strategically. As the Castilian army advanced, they were funneled into narrow spaces where their numbers counted for less, and the Portuguese defenders could repel them effectively. The Castilians' repeated charges were met with fierce resistance, and their forces were decimated by the Portuguese archers and infantry.

The battle was a decisive victory for Portugal. The Castilian army suffered heavy losses, and King John I of Castile was forced to retreat. The triumph at Aljubarrota not only secured the throne for João of Aviz but also reaffirmed Portugal's independence, preventing it from being absorbed into the Castilian kingdom.

Nuno Álvares Pereira's leadership was instrumental in this success. His tactics and bravery earned him the admiration and loyalty of his men and the respect of his adversaries. Following the victory, he continued to serve as a loyal supporter of King João I and played a crucial role in the subsequent consolidation of the Avis Dynasty.

In his later years, Nuno Álvares Pereira turned away from military life and entered a Carmelite monastery in Lisbon, dedicating himself to religious devotion and charitable works. He was canonized as Saint Nuno of Saint Mary by Pope Benedict XVI in 2009, recognized for his piety and contributions to the Catholic Church.

The Battle of Aljubarrota remains a symbol of Portuguese resilience and determination, and Nuno Álvares Pereira is celebrated as one of the nation's greatest heroes. His legacy is commemorated in various monuments and cultural references throughout Portugal, serving as a reminder of the country's rich historical heritage.

Aljubarrota, Portugal.

Bordalo II's owl in Coimbra (Portugal)

Bordalo II’s owl in Coimbra (Portugal)

Bordalo II, the Portuguese street artist, captivates with his environmental advocacy and art. His latest work on the façade of the Faculty of Arts at the University of Coimbra features a split owl, symbolizing knowledge. One half is colorful, the other monochrome, reflecting the blend of tradition and innovation.

This piece is part of Bordalo II's “Big Trash Animals – Neutral” series, promoting sustainability and climate awareness through sculptures made from recycled materials. The owl, a symbol of wisdom, fits perfectly at the University of Coimbra, the oldest higher education institution in Portugal.

Bordalo II describes the owl as a young figure, stretching to reach its goals, with one side clinging to tradition and the other embracing the future, symbolizing progress and new ideas.

Since 2012, Bordalo II has created around 200 sculptures using over 60 tons of recycled materials. His work critiques consumerism and highlights the potential for change by transforming waste into meaningful art.

Bordalo II’s owl at the University of Coimbra is a powerful symbol of the wisdom needed for a sustainable future, encouraging viewers to rethink their relationship with waste.

Eternal Love and Tragedy: The Tale of King Pedro I and Inês de Castro (Monastery of Alcobaça, Portugal)

King Pedro I of Portugal’s tomb in the Monastery of Alcobaça (Portugal).

Inês de Castro’s tomb in the Monastery of Alcobaça (Portugal).

King Pedro I of Portugal, often called "Pedro the Just", ruled from 1357 to 1367. He is remembered not only for his governance but for his tragic love story with Inês de Castro, a tale that has become one of Portugal's most famous legends.

Pedro fell deeply in love with Inês de Castro, a noblewoman from Galicia, while still married to another woman, Constança of Castile. After Constança's death, Pedro openly continued his relationship with Inês, but their love was considered scandalous and politically dangerous. Inês’ family ties to the Castilian nobility raised fears among the Portuguese court of undue influence.

In 1355, King Afonso IV, Pedro's father, ordered Inês’ execution in an attempt to end the affair. She was brutally murdered while Pedro was away. Stricken by grief and fury, Pedro rebelled against his father, leading to a brief civil war. After ascending the throne, Pedro claimed that he had secretly married Inês, declaring her his lawful queen. He even ordered the exhumation of her body and, according to legend, compelled the court to swear allegiance to her by kissing her hand.

Pedro ensured their love story would endure by commissioning matching tombs in the Monastery of Alcobaça. The tombs, intricately carved with scenes of their lives and love, lie facing one another so that, as legend says, they can look at each other for eternity. The inscription on Pedro's tomb reads, "Até ao fim do mundo" ("Until the end of the world"), symbolizing their eternal bond. Visitors to the monastery can still see these tombs today, a testament to one of history's most poignant love stories.

Afonso’s Conquest of Santarém in 1147 (Portugal)

The conquest of Santarém in 1147 by Afonso Henriques as depicted on 18th century azulejo tiles in the Alcobaça Monastery.

Afonso Henriques is the founder and first king of Portugal. He is a figure whose legacy is inextricably tied to the nation's early struggles for independence. His reign, which spanned from 1139 to 1185, was defined by his unyielding ambition and strategic brilliance, particularly in the face of the Moorish presence on the Iberian Peninsula.

Among the most celebrated of Afonso's military exploits was his daring conquest of Santarém in 1147, a bold move that played a pivotal role in securing Portugal’s future. The city, a Moorish stronghold situated along the Tagus River, was a prize of immense strategic value. Its fortifications made it a formidable obstacle, but Afonso, ever the tactician, saw an opportunity to expand his kingdom and weaken Moorish control in the region.

In March of that year, Afonso gathered a small but fiercely loyal force—just 250 soldiers, each chosen for their courage and skill. Under the cover of darkness, they approached the city, armed with nothing more than scaling ladders—escalas—which they used to scale the high, impregnable walls. The silence of their movements was key to the success of the mission, as they crept unnoticed past the city’s guards.

Once atop the walls, the small band of men overpowered the defenders in a swift and silent assault, opening the gates to allow the main forces to flood in. By the time dawn broke, Santarém had fallen into Afonso's hands, a stunning victory that displayed not only his military genius but also his unrelenting determination to carve out a kingdom of his own.

This victory was more than just a military achievement; it was a statement of Afonso's resolve and vision for Portugal's future. The fall of Santarém shifted the balance of power in the Reconquista and solidified Afonso's reputation as a leader capable of achieving the impossible. Just months later, he would go on to capture Lisbon, further cementing his control over key territories and paving the way for Portugal's formal independence.

The significance of Santarém's capture cannot be overstated. It was a defining moment in Afonso's campaign to break free from the Kingdom of León and Castile, ultimately leading to Portugal's recognition as an independent kingdom through the Treaty of Zamora in 1143. This victory, along with his subsequent successes, laid the foundation for the nation that would eventually become the Portugal we know today.

Today, Santarém remains a historic city, its legacy forever entwined with the daring spirit of Dom Afonso I, whose conquest of the city remains a proud and enduring chapter in Portuguese history.

Santarém, Portugal.

Alcobaça, Portugal.

Echoes from Linhares da Beira (Portugal)

The Belgium family in Linhares da Beira.

On a sunny morning in Linhares da Beira, a charming medieval village tucked into the Portuguese mountains, we found ourselves at a small terrace overlooking the terracotta rooftops and rolling hills. The warm December sun bathed the granite streets in golden light.

It was there that we met a friendly Belgian family that live in the beautiful historic city of Linhares da Beira. They were enjoying plates of fresh diospiro (a sweet, orange fruit with a smooth skin and a honey-like flavor) and some local beers, their faces alight with contentment. After exchanging pleasantries, we quickly ended up in a warm conversation.

"We fell in love with this place some years ago," one of them shared, gesturing toward the stone cottages scattered along the winding streets. “Many of these houses are owned by foreigners now — Dutch, Belgian, Brits, and some Germans. These old houses are not appreciated any more by the Portuguese, but still the heart of the village is still deeply Portuguese.”

They nodded thoughtfully. "We were drawn here not just by the beauty but by the simplicity of life. Everything is affordable — from fresh produce at the market to local wine. And the weather... well, it’s perfect almost year-round."

As we admired the nearby castle, the conversation continued. "The Portuguese system is incredibly social. They take care of their people, especially the elderly. There’s home care, meal delivery, and a genuine sense of community support. It’s something you don’t see everywhere.”

We mentioned how surprising it was to see such a well-functioning system in a remote village. "Healthcare here is excellent and practically free. Whether you need a routine check-up or something serious, it’s all covered. It’s a level of security that lets you really enjoy life.”

Our gaze drifted toward the quiet village square. A lone elderly woman slowly crossed the cobblestone path. “It’s hard to believe this village once had over 1,200 people. Now it’s about 300. But in a way, that makes it even more special — a place where time seems to stand still.”

Linhares da Beira (Portugal).