The Sint-Pieterskerk (St Peter's church) in Bertem (Belgium)

The Sint-Pieterskerk in Bertem (Belgium).

The Sint-Pieterskerk in Bertem, Belgium, is a Meuse-Romanesque church with deep historical roots dating back to the 11th century. Built on the remnants of an older structure, it is one of the best-preserved Romanesque buildings in Belgium. Its sturdy, almost fortress-like design reflects the architectural style of the time, with thick walls and small windows. The church has served as a religious center for nearly a millennium and is an excellent example of the Meuse-Romanesque architecture. Some later additions and modifications reflecting the evolving needs of its parishioners.

Throughout its history, the Sint-Pieterskerk witnessed many historical events, from religious reformations to local conflicts, yet it remained a constant in the village’s spiritual life. Its interior houses a unique collection of medieval art, including a beautiful carved baptismal font and religious statues. The graveyard surrounding the church, as well as the crypt, also adds to the historical significance of this remarkable building.

Despite facing the challenges of time and war, the Sint-Pieterskerk has undergone several restorations to preserve its architectural and historical integrity. Today, it remains not only a place of worship but also a testament to the religious and cultural history of the region, offering insight into Belgium’s medieval past.

Château Gaillard, Les Andelys (France)

Château Gaillard, Les Andelys (France).

Richard the Lionheart, known for his courage and strategic brilliance, was not only the king of England but also a warrior and an astute builder. One of his most ambitious architectural achievements was Château Gaillard, a formidable fortress overlooking the Seine River in Normandy. Constructed between 1196 and 1198, this castle was a testament to Richard's determination to protect his Norman territories from the encroaching French crown under King Philip II. Château Gaillard, often called "the Saucy Castle" due to Richard's own description of its defiance, was a marvel of medieval military architecture, blending innovative fortifications with natural landscape advantages to create an almost impenetrable stronghold.

Built at incredible speed, Château Gaillard incorporated advanced defensive techniques, including concentric walls, rounded towers, and strategic placements that made siege difficult. However, its significance extended beyond its structure; it symbolized Richard’s fervor for defending his lands and his legacy as a military leader. Though Richard died in 1199, the castle stood as a lasting reminder of his impact on both architecture and medieval warfare.

Altar Frontal from Sant Martí in Puigbò (Spain)

Altar Frontal from Sant Martí in Puigbò (12th century), MEV, Museu d’Art Medieval, Vic (Spain).

The Altar Frontal from Sant Martí in Puigbò is a beautiful example of Romanesque art from Catalonia, created between 1120 and 1150. The frontal features a geometric style typical of the Romanesque period, reflecting the religious and artistic values of the time. This anonymous work, likely painted by an artist influenced by the renowned Master of the Baldachin from Ribes, combines refined iconography with a popular artistic tradition.

The frontal, originally from the parish church of Sant Martí in Puigbò (located near Puigbò Castle in the Ripollès region), depicts four scenes from the life of Saint Martin, the church’s patron saint. The scenes are arranged in four compartments:

  1. Saint Martin on horseback sharing his chlamys (a cloak) with a poor man, a well-known act of charity.

  2. The resurrection of a convert, where Saint Martin brings a dead man back to life before he is baptized.

  3. The death of Saint Martin, showing his final moments.

  4. Two angels taking Saint Martin’s soul to heaven, symbolizing his divine reward.

These scenes are framed by a horizontal Latin inscription that reads: “For being generous with the poor man on Earth, Martin now resides in Heaven.” The work is noted for its bold use of color and simple, expressive figures, typical of the Romanesque style, which was intended to convey religious messages to a largely illiterate audience. The frontal serves both as a decorative and didactic piece, emphasizing Saint Martin's virtues of charity and faith.

The Church Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse, Jujols (France)

Église Saint-Julien et Sainte-Basilisse, Jujols (France).

The Église Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse in Jujols, a picturesque village in the Haut-Conflent region of the Pyrénées-Orientales, is a remarkable example of Romanesque architecture shaped by centuries of history and adaptation. Perched on a mountain ridge with stunning views of the Têt Valley and the Canigou Massif, the church stands as a testament to the region’s architectural heritage and its resilience against natural and human challenges.

Originally built in the 11th century, the church reflects the early southern Romanesque style known as "Lombard." This is evident in features such as the apse, adorned with simple arcading and vertical lesenes, and its characteristic double-embrasure windows. The square bell tower, integral to the initial construction, once rose high above the church but has since been reduced in height due to partial collapses over the centuries. Together, the apse and the tower point to the church's origins as part of a cohesive Romanesque complex.

Throughout its history, the church has undergone significant modifications. A major reconstruction in the 13th or 14th century transformed much of the nave and added a side aisle, reflecting evolving architectural practices and the need for greater structural stability. These changes were likely necessitated by the region's geological challenges, including the devastating earthquake of 1426-1427. The reconstruction added thick walls, steep buttresses, and a side aisle to reinforce the building and protect it against future tremors.

One particularly fascinating aspect is the church's southern portal, which features a Romanesque design with two concentric semicircular arches, likely relocated during a reconstruction phase. The portal’s materials—a blend of granite, schist, and breccia—highlight the craftsmanship and resourcefulness of local builders.

Today, the Église Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse offers visitors a glimpse into the layered history of Romanesque architecture in the Pyrenees. While its origins point to a modest 11th-century parish church, the building's many adaptations and reinforcements over the centuries tell a story of resilience, continuity, and the enduring importance of this sacred space to the village of Jujols. Its serene location and harmonious blend of architectural elements make it an essential site for those exploring the cultural and historical heritage of the Haut-Conflent region.

Interior of the Église Saint-Julien et Sainte-Basilisse, Jujols (France).

Saint-Julien et Sainte-Basilisse

Saint Julian and Saint Basilissa, also known as Julian of Antioch and Basilissa of Antioch, are early Christian martyrs venerated for their unwavering faith, charity, and commitment to God. They are believed to have lived in the 3rd or 4th century during a time of intense persecution under Roman emperors such as Diocletian or Maximian.

According to tradition, Julian and Basilissa were married but chose to dedicate their union to God through celibacy, transforming their home into a place of refuge and care for the sick, poor, and persecuted Christians. Basilissa managed the hospice they founded, while Julian ministered to their spiritual needs. Their charitable acts and devotion made them prominent figures in the Christian community of Antioch (modern-day Turkey).

When the Roman authorities began persecuting Christians, both saints were arrested. Basilissa is said to have died a martyr, possibly through torture or execution, while Julian endured horrific suffering, including being dragged through the streets, before his eventual martyrdom. Their steadfast faith inspired early Christian communities, and their story became a symbol of piety, charity, and courage.

The couple is often invoked as patrons of hospitality and caregivers, reflecting their life’s work. Their shared feast day is celebrated on January 6 or 9, and they are commemorated in various Christian traditions, particularly in the Western and Eastern Churches. Numerous churches, including the Église Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse in Jujols, France, are dedicated to their memory, honoring their legacy of faith and love.

Urban Echoes from Ripoll (Spain)

Urban Echoes from Ripoll (Spain).

Ripoll is a charming town in the heart of Catalonia, known for its rich history and welcoming atmosphere. It is home to the world-famous portal of the Santa Maria de Ripoll monastery, a stunning example of Romanesque art. But Ripoll is not just about history – it plays a vital role in shaping the future too. The Institut Abat Oliba is a key education center for young people from the region. Many students travel to Ripoll by bus or train to study here, as the school offers excellent programs in administrative, sports, and technical fields. This makes Ripoll a hub of learning and opportunity for the next generation.

Saint-Jean-de-Côle (France)

Château de la Martonie, Saint-Jean-de-Côle (France).

Saint-Jean-de-Côle is a picturesque village nestled in the Périgord Vert region of southwestern France, renowned for its timeless charm and historical significance. The village, with its well-preserved medieval architecture and tranquil setting, offers a captivating glimpse into the rich heritage of the Dordogne department.

At the heart of Saint-Jean-de-Côle stands its remarkable church, the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste. This beautiful Romanesque church, dating back to the 12th century, is celebrated for its architectural elegance and historical importance. The church features a striking façade adorned with intricate carvings, and its serene interior is characterized by a vaulted nave and an array of medieval artworks. The Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste not only serves as a place of worship but also as a testament to the village’s rich ecclesiastical history.

Another jewel of Saint-Jean-de-Côle is the Château de la Martonie, a grand medieval castle that commands attention with its imposing presence. Originally constructed in the 15th century, the Château de la Martonie has been meticulously restored to showcase its historical grandeur. The castle’s robust stone walls, elegant turrets, and surrounding gardens reflect its historical role as a fortified residence. The Château de la Martonie offers visitors a glimpse into the aristocratic lifestyle of the past, with its well-preserved architecture and picturesque surroundings adding to the allure of this historical gem.

Monsieur, Madame et le Chien

"Monsieur, Madame et le Chien" by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1893) - Musée Toulouse-Lautrec (Albi, France).

"Monsieur, Madame et le Chien" by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec is a notable example of the artist's work, blending his characteristic wit and observational skill with a sense of playful ambiguity. Painted in 1893, this piece reflects Lautrec's fascination with the human condition and the social dynamics of the Parisian bourgeoisie.

The artwork depicts a well-dressed couple seated together, accompanied by their small dog. "Monsieur" is stiffly posed, his expression one of detached indifference, while "Madame" appears more relaxed, with a sly, knowing smile. The little dog, placed at the woman's feet, gazes directly at the viewer, as if to invite interpretation. The scene captures the tension between formality and intimacy, a recurring theme in Lautrec’s exploration of human relationships.

Lautrec's inspiration for the painting came from his time spent observing Parisian society. While much of his work focused on the bohemian nightlife of Montmartre, this piece offers a satirical take on the conventions of the upper middle class. The dog serves as a humorous focal point, symbolizing loyalty, status, and perhaps even the unspoken dynamics of the couple's relationship.

The title itself adds a layer of irony. By equating the dog with "Monsieur" and "Madame," Lautrec gently mocks the pretensions of his subjects, suggesting that their carefully curated appearances and manners are as much a performance as the animal’s obedience.

The late 19th century was a time of social transformation in France, with increasing tensions between traditional values and modernity. Lautrec, an aristocrat by birth but a bohemian by choice, was keenly aware of these shifts. His works often blurred the line between affection and critique, portraying his subjects with both empathy and a sharp eye for their flaws.

This painting, while less provocative than some of his depictions of dancers and courtesans, still carries his signature irreverence. It subtly critiques the stiff, ritualized interactions of bourgeois couples, using humor to reveal the emotional distance that could exist behind the veneer of propriety.

"Monsieur, Madame et le Chien" remains a celebrated piece for its lighthearted yet incisive commentary on society. It highlights Lautrec’s genius in capturing complex human emotions within seemingly simple compositions, cementing his reputation as one of the most insightful artists of his time.

The Legend of Dame Carcas

Dame Carcas.

The legend of Dame Carcas is steeped in folklore, tying the city of Carcassonne (France) to a tale of resilience, cunning, and the enduring spirit of its people. To understand the context, we must step back into the time of Charlemagne and the Carolingian campaigns, a period marked by power struggles between the Christian Franks and various groups, including the Saracens (Muslim forces who had established themselves in parts of the Iberian Peninsula and southern France).

The Siege of Carcassonne

In the 8th century, Charlemagne—or, as some sources suggest, one of his predecessors, possibly his father Pepin the Short—marched south to expand Frankish control and push back Saracen rule. The fortress-city of Carcassonne, strategically located on the Aude River, became a critical target. It was a bastion of Saracen defense, fortified by walls that seemed impenetrable. Charlemagne’s army laid siege to the city, hoping to starve out its defenders and claim it as a key stronghold in his quest to secure southern Gaul.

The Heroism of Dame Carcas

The legend begins when the ruler of Carcassonne, a Saracen leader, is killed during the siege. His widow, Dame Carcas, takes command of the city’s defense. Her name is often thought to be derived from the Arabic ‘qarqash’, though this remains speculative. For five long years, she leads the people of Carcassonne, refusing to surrender despite the siege’s devastating toll. Charlemagne’s army encircles the city, waiting for hunger and desperation to force the inhabitants to capitulate.

As supplies dwindle, Dame Carcas devises a brilliant ruse. To give the illusion that the city is still thriving, she gathers the last grains of wheat and the only pig left alive within the walls. In a bold move, she has the pig fed the wheat and then hurled over the city’s walls into the besieging camp. When Charlemagne's troops see this, they believe Carcassonne still has abundant food stores and livestock to spare. Convinced that the city can withstand the siege indefinitely, the Frankish forces withdraw.

The Naming of Carcassonne

According to the legend, as the Frankish army departs, Dame Carcas orders the city’s bells to ring in celebration. Upon hearing the sound, someone in Charlemagne’s camp is said to have exclaimed, “Carcas sonne!”—“Carcas rings!” The phrase became immortalized as the city’s name, Carcassonne.

Historical Context and Symbolism

The tale of Dame Carcas, though almost certainly apocryphal, symbolizes the themes of cleverness, resistance, and the triumph of the underdog. Historically, the siege of Carcassonne may have been tied to the Frankish campaigns to consolidate their control over Aquitaine and Septimania, regions contested by Muslim and Christian forces. The city itself, with its imposing double walls and commanding position, became a lasting emblem of medieval fortification.

While there is little evidence that Dame Carcas ever existed, her story continues to resonate, capturing the spirit of Carcassonne as a place where history and myth intertwine, and where the echoes of defiance against overwhelming odds still ring through the ages.

Motorhome travel

Motorhome travel offers the freedom to explore the World at your own pace, embracing a lifestyle focused on experiences rather than possessions. While it comes with challenges like managing limited space and vehicle upkeep, it allows travelers to form a unique community and enjoy a life of adventure and discovery.

How a slave became a Queen at the Merovingian Court

A statue of Saint/Queen Bathilde in the Saint-Peter Church of Corbie.

Queen Bathilde, also known as Saint Bathilde, was a significant figure in Merovingian France during the 7th century. Born around 626 AD, likely of Anglo-Saxon origin, she was initially enslaved and brought to the Frankish court. Through her intelligence and grace, she captured the attention of King Clovis II of Neustria and Burgundy, whom she eventually married, rising from slavery to royalty. As queen, Bathilde was known for her humility, piety, and dedication to social reform. She championed the abolition of Christian slavery and supported the establishment of monasteries, which would become centers of learning and charity. After her husband's death, she served as regent for her young son, King Clotaire III, guiding the kingdom with a wise and just hand. Later canonized as a saint, Bathilde's legacy lives on in the history of the church and in the social reforms she enacted, earning her a place of reverence in French and Christian history.

A snapshot of life in 2024 (from Vernet-les-Bains, Pyrenees, France)

A snapshot of life in 2024 (from Vernet-les-Bains, Pyrenees, France).

On this terrace in Vernet-les-Bains (Pyrenees, France), next to the Saturday market, people gather for their morning coffee. It’s mid-November 2024, and the crisp mountain air carries the quiet hum of voices. Conversations flow easily, meandering between the personal and the political, the local and the global.

Some discuss the daily challenges of life: the relentless rise in the cost of living, the strain of making ends meet, or the recent health struggles of a friend or family member. Others delve into broader concerns, sharing stories of the torrential rains that battered Valencia, leaving behind tales of destruction and worry. Climate change looms over their words like a shadow, its presence undeniable and unnerving.

Inevitably, talk turns to the ongoing wars—Ukraine, Gaza—conflicts that feel both distant and uncomfortably close. How, some wonder aloud, can such violence persist in a world that seems to have learned so little from history? There's a sense of helplessness in their questions, mingled with frustration at leaders who seem disconnected from the struggles of ordinary people. Also the topic “President Macron” comes by. He was once a figure of promise for some, but is now met with shrugs and sharp critiques; his policies, many feel, have left rural communities like theirs behind.

Yet, amidst these weighty topics, a lighter subject emerges, offering a sense of relief. Someone suggests heading into the mountains next Saturday to hunt wild boars. The idea sparks smiles and nods, a collective agreement to momentarily escape the complexities of modern life. The thought of trekking through the cool, pine-scented forests, rifles slung over shoulders, feels grounding. It’s a return to a simpler, more primal connection with nature—and perhaps, to each other.

Here, on this terrace in Vernet-les-Bains, the world’s troubles blend with its small joys, creating a snapshot of life in 2024: full of worry, but not without hope.

Lemgo (Germany)

Lemgo (Germany).

Lemgo is a historic town in the Lippe region of Germany, with a rich past that dates back to its founding in 1190 by Bernard II, Lord of Lippe. Positioned strategically at the crossroads of important trade routes, Lemgo quickly grew into a bustling medieval market town. During the Middle Ages, it became a member of the Hanseatic League, which boosted its economic influence across Northern Europe.

The town is also known for its significant role in the Reformation and the subsequent religious conflicts. In the 16th century, Lemgo was one of the first towns in the region to adopt Lutheranism, leading to tensions with the Catholic rulers of Lippe. Additionally, Lemgo became notorious for its witch trials during the 17th century, which were among the most severe in Germany, marking a dark chapter in its history.

Today, Lemgo's well-preserved medieval architecture, including its beautiful half-timbered houses and the Gothic Church of St. Nicolai, serves as a reminder of its storied past. The town's rich cultural heritage and historical significance continue to attract visitors and historians alike.

St. Nicolai Church, Lemgo (Germany).

The Abbey of Corbie (France)

Abbey Saint-Pierre of Corbie (France).

The Abbey of Corbie, founded in 657 AD by Queen Bathilde (and supported by her husband, King Clovis II), was one of the most influential Benedictine monasteries in medieval Europe. Located in northern France, the abbey quickly became a center of learning, culture, and religious life. It played a crucial role during the Carolingian Renaissance, helping to preserve ancient manuscripts and sending out missionaries across Europe. Through its scriptorium, the abbey became a guardian of knowledge, safeguarding texts that might otherwise have been lost during the early medieval period.

The Abbey Church of Saint-Pierre, originally built in the 9th century, stands as a testament to this rich history. The church, once the central structure of the abbey, is a stunning Gothic building. Over the centuries, it has been reconstructed several times, having endured fires and wars. Today, only about one-third of its original length remains. However, visitors can still admire its impressive facade, towering vaults, and intricate furnishings, which hint at the abbey's former grandeur. The church’s architecture reflects the immense influence of Corbie in its time, both spiritually and culturally.

Unfortunately, the abbey's prominence came to an end with the French Revolution, when it was closed in August 1790, sold off as national property, and eventually demolished. Despite this, the surviving church remains a key historical site. Visitors can explore not only the remnants of the abbey but also the museum in Corbie, which delves into the rich history of both the abbey and the town itself.

In short, the Abbey of Corbie stands as a powerful reminder of the role monastic communities played in shaping medieval European intellectual and spiritual life, with its surviving church offering a glimpse into this important past.

Corbie Abbey in 1677, image taken from the "Monasticon Gallicanum".

Urk's Lighthouse (Urk, The Netherlands)

The lighthouse of Urk, a prominent and enduring symbol of the town, has a rich history that reflects the maritime heritage of this former island community. Established in 1844, the Urk lighthouse was built to guide fishermen and sailors through the treacherous waters of the Zuiderzee. The lighthouse stands on the highest point of Urk, offering a commanding view of the surrounding sea and serving as a beacon of safety for generations of seafarers.

The construction of the lighthouse marked a significant development in Urk's maritime infrastructure, enhancing the safety of navigation and supporting the local fishing industry. Over the years, the lighthouse has been modernized, transitioning from oil lamps to more advanced lighting systems, yet it has maintained its historic charm and significance.

Throughout its existence, the Urk lighthouse has witnessed the transformation of the region, including the ambitious Zuiderzee Works, which converted the Zuiderzee into the IJsselmeer and connected Urk to the mainland. Despite these changes, the lighthouse remains a vital part of the town's identity, symbolizing the resilience and enduring spirit of Urk's maritime community.

Today, the Urk lighthouse is not only a functional navigational aid but also a cherished historical landmark. It attracts visitors who are eager to explore its storied past and enjoy the panoramic views of the IJsselmeer. The lighthouse stands as a testament to Urk's rich maritime legacy and continues to be a proud emblem of the town's connection to the sea.

Tijs van Lin, Anabaptism and the great city fire of Roermond (1554)

The great fire of Bern 1405. Amtliche Berner Chronik by Diebold Schilling, Bd. 1, 144, 1478.

Tijs van Lin (16th century) was a kind and religious man from Roermond. He was known for his compassion and generosity towards the poor. He helped those in need with what he had, earning him a good reputation in the community.

After leaving the Roman Catholic Church and its practices, Thijs became an Anabaptist. He tried to live a holy life every day, aiming to honor God, help others, and spread light to those still in spiritual darkness.

His strong commitment to his new faith made him a target for those who opposed it. Tijs was accused of heresy, imprisoned, and tortured in an attempt to make him abandon his beliefs. Despite all the suffering, he stayed firm in his faith. In the end, he was sentenced to death under Imperial law and was burned to ashes.

A few years after his execution in 1551, a fire broke out in Roermond (1554), almost burning the entire city to the ground. Was this, as many believe it was, the divine punishment for the unjust killing of Tijs?

Aulne Abbey (Thuin, Belgium)

Aulne Abbey.

In a green valley near Thuin, Belgium, Aulne Abbey stands as a hauntingly beautiful reminder of medieval grandeur. Founded in the 7th century by Saint Landelin, a converted brigand turned monk, the abbey originally served as a place of solitude and prayer. Over the centuries, it evolved from a Benedictine monastery into a flourishing Cistercian abbey, known for its intellectual influence and the serene landscapes of its gardens.

However, Aulne’s prosperity also invited hardship. It was repeatedly plundered and set ablaze during the Middle Ages but rose each time, transforming into a rich religious center by the 18th century. This enduring legacy met its tragic end during the French Revolution when invading forces reduced it to ruins, leaving behind the skeletal beauty of Gothic arches and ivy-draped stone walls. Today, the ruins of Aulne Abbey are a silent testimony to its former splendor, echoing the rise, resilience, and fall of a place that once thrived in the Belgian countryside.

Saint-Émilion

A view on the medieval city of Saint-Émilion.

Nestled among the vineyards of Bordeaux, France, lies Saint-Émilion, a charming village exuding timeless beauty. Its cobblestone streets, adorned with flowers, wind through ancient stone buildings, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding vineyards.

Strolling through Saint-Émilion, we discovered charming cafes, and boutiques. And although it was December, we enjoyed beautiful spring-like weather. The village invites visitors to explore catacombs, sample renowned wines, or simply enjoy leisurely afternoons in the town square. Saint-Émilion is a place where time seems to pause, enveloping every moment in magic and wonder.

Olvera (Spain)

Iglesia Arciprestal de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, Olvera.

Located on a hilltop in Andalusia, Olvera is a town that reflects centuries of history. Its position has made it an important place for thousands of years.

The name Olvera likely has Arabic roots, showing its complex past. Under Roman rule, it was a thriving settlement. When the Moors took over, it became a key outpost on the Moorish frontier.

The Christian reconquest in the 13th century was another turning point for Olvera. The town was freed and turned into a fortified stronghold. The large castle, a symbol of its military importance, still stands tall today.

Throughout the years, Olvera has seen a mix of cultures, each influencing the town’s buildings, language, and traditions. The historic center, with its winding streets and whitewashed houses, acts like a living museum, showing how the town has changed over time.

Today, Olvera lets visitors step back in time and explore the rich history and culture of Andalusia. Its key location and historical importance make it a fascinating place for anyone looking for a genuine and memorable experience.